Tom Ford impressed audiences with an Edie Sedgwick meets Rodeo Drive approach to attitude. This strong-lined and business-forward attire was tinged with a sparkle of LA glamour and 80s detail. Though Ford’s shoulder pads certainly drew attention, they had nothing on the hyperbolic vision of Marc Jacobs’ show.
Marc Jacobs is renowned for causing controversy, however this time around the fashion maverick seems to have done everything right. His vision was meticulous, and featured 80s frames and extravagant cuts which, together with the almost fastidious detail of the styling, meant that his autumn/winter (A/W) collection was almost uniquely classy.
But the star of New York Fashion Week this year was still the New York favourite, Alexander Wang. Celebrating all things female in his CEO collection, Wang’s A/W vision was definitely the most forward thinking one seen on the catwalk this year. And his ballsy moves definitely paid off, as Wang’s show – hosted in the headquarters of Condé Nast – was the biggest happening of the week. The playful proportions and passionate lines could easily have come across as heavy-handed, but mixed as they were with softer details, Wang managed to secure an immaculate balance. A hopeful modernism is Wang’s strongest asset as he enters a new era as a brand.
Whilst most of the designers seemed to have gone either for androgynous lines, or the power suit approach, Anna Sui chose to bring a floral Bohemian daydream to life in her Beloved collection. Staying true to by her free-spirited innocent look and signature prints, Sui’s clothes delighted the audience by standing out from the more hard-edged collections that have defined this year’s runway.
What was interesting this season was the prevalence of designs that suggested female empowerment. Alexander Wang’s CEO collection was the most obvious example, however Tom Ford’s Pussy Power bag and Anna Sui’s feminine fairy-tale also enforced the message that this season is all about giving the power to the ladies, with accessories to match. Perhaps it’s fashion’s response to the #MeToo campaign. It seems the fashion business is facing up to its social responsibilities, and what with more brands banning fur and greater diversity on the runway, the fashion world is more exciting that ever.
Shows to look forward to for London Fashion Week:
Molly Goddard
Burberry
JW Anderson
